Laterne
macrumors newbie
Finally my original G3 beige's PSU died. So I took the opportunity to convert to an 80 Plus Gold certified one.
There were three reasons for upgrading:
1. active PFC => high efficiency ; low consumption
2. ultra silent operation of the 120 mm PSU fan being temperature-controlled
3. almost doubled nominal power output
To fit the G3 Mini-Tower case without modifications the PSU has to be ATX form factor. The correct location of the power unit's On/Off switch is another aspect to be considered.
Some general info:
Both beige G3 cases - the Desktop and the Mini-Tower - feature the Gossamer mainboard, but only the latter was shipped with an ATX-based power supply. Before converting to an actual ATX PSU make sure the small PSU-specific jumper (found on the mainboard in the vicinity of the PCI expansion slots) is set to PS/2 position.
In addition, two modifications must be carried out in order to make a 24-pin PSU connector work with these old-world Powermacs:
1) pin 18
Since year 2005 most 24pin ATX power units don't carry pin 20 (-5V) any more. So we can take the (useless white) wire of pin 20 to obtain 'ground' for G3 pin #18 e.g. by connecting it to black wire of pin24.
2) pin 8
The standard ATX pin #8 called 'Power Good' (often grey-colored) is not required because the Powermac's mainboard provides a built-in boot delay. Instead the beige G3 asks for +3.3V ('orange') at pin #8.
I purchased a short ATX wire adapter (24-pin female to 20-pin male) that is well suited for these two mods. You don't have to alter anything at the PSU wiring loom itself!
This modified 24-to-20-pin adapter will allow the following Power Macs to be upgraded with a state-of-the-art ATX PSU:
G3 Desktop
G3 Minitower
G3 All-in-one
G3 Blue & White
G4 PCI Graphics
There were three reasons for upgrading:
1. active PFC => high efficiency ; low consumption
2. ultra silent operation of the 120 mm PSU fan being temperature-controlled
3. almost doubled nominal power output
To fit the G3 Mini-Tower case without modifications the PSU has to be ATX form factor. The correct location of the power unit's On/Off switch is another aspect to be considered.
Some general info:
Both beige G3 cases - the Desktop and the Mini-Tower - feature the Gossamer mainboard, but only the latter was shipped with an ATX-based power supply. Before converting to an actual ATX PSU make sure the small PSU-specific jumper (found on the mainboard in the vicinity of the PCI expansion slots) is set to PS/2 position.
In addition, two modifications must be carried out in order to make a 24-pin PSU connector work with these old-world Powermacs:
1) pin 18
Since year 2005 most 24pin ATX power units don't carry pin 20 (-5V) any more. So we can take the (useless white) wire of pin 20 to obtain 'ground' for G3 pin #18 e.g. by connecting it to black wire of pin24.
2) pin 8
The standard ATX pin #8 called 'Power Good' (often grey-colored) is not required because the Powermac's mainboard provides a built-in boot delay. Instead the beige G3 asks for +3.3V ('orange') at pin #8.
I purchased a short ATX wire adapter (24-pin female to 20-pin male) that is well suited for these two mods. You don't have to alter anything at the PSU wiring loom itself!
This modified 24-to-20-pin adapter will allow the following Power Macs to be upgraded with a state-of-the-art ATX PSU:
G3 Desktop
G3 Minitower
G3 All-in-one
G3 Blue & White
G4 PCI Graphics
Since it is impossible to find a G5 Case without dents and scratches, I wanted to paint them, freshly. I am done now and it is time to share my experiences: It was a rough 6 months from start to finish. The project kept me busy during all of the winter. I worked every weekend on it, till late. Powermac G5 conversion products Our Range of Powermac G5 Conversion Products G5 mATX conversion kits. These kits are now available in two versions “Original” and “120mm Fan”. G5 Full ATX conversion kits. These kits are available now in “Original”, “High 120”, “Low 120”.
Powermac G5 Atx Conversion Manual
Jun 17, 2017 It's really hard to make this ATX mod look good. I have a dremel and various cutting tools, but it just wouldn't look good. I found a couple of sites, which sells these conversion kits, which basically means I only have to cut off a bit of the back and replace it.
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